Utsjoki, Finland: Nuorgam, Kevo and the Teno (Tana) River

Utsjoki today: weather now, Nuorgam and Karigasniemi, the Kevo trail, the River Teno, where to eat with today’s hours and tonight’s aurora chance.

Salmon Trail (Lohipolku): An easy marked loop, completed in 2021, that suits all ages. It starts from the Onnelantörmä car park, about 100 m from the Sámi Bridge towards Nuorgam, passes through an underpass to the riverbank and follows the river back to Onnelantörmä. Boards along the way explain how to travel responsibly in Utsjoki. The photo was taken in October.

Áilegas: A 1.4 km nature trail across the open top of the Áilegas fell, marked with orange paint, with a short spur to a viewpoint over the Teno valley and Utsjoki village. You need a permit from the Kylätalo Giisá village hall to drive up Ailikkaantie; if you walk up, park at the lay-by where Nuorgamintie meets Ailikkaantie, and always close the reindeer fence gate. Áilegas is one of three sacred Áilegas fells along the Teno. Many reindeer live on the fell, so keep your distance. Stay on the path so that you do not step on bird nests, and do not pile stones or light fires. The photo was taken in May.

Skaidijärvi trail (Near Nuorgam, from Pulmankijärventie): A loop north of the Kaldoaivi wilderness area that starts near Nuorgam, at the snowmobile route gate on Pulmankijärventie. The first 2 km cross a bog on steel duckboards. By Lake Skaidijärvi there is a kota (a traditional Lapland hut) and a fire pit, and on Isokivenvaara the trail crosses the road to Lake Pulmankijärvi. Metsähallitus says it suits hikers of all ages. The photo shows Pulmankijärventie from Isokivenvaara.

Kevo trail (From Kenesjärvi, 25 km from Utsjoki village): Metsähallitus’s 58 km trail runs through the canyon of the Kevo Strict Nature Reserve between Sulaoja and Kenesjärvi, and you can walk it in either direction. Allow 3⁠–⁠4 days and carry your own tent. You wade across the Kevojoki river three times and the Fiellujoki once, and the signposts are in Northern Sámi. In the canyon you may move only on the marked trail: on foot from 15 June to 15 October and on skis from 16 October to 31 March. All access is banned from 1 April to 14 June. You may not leave the trail, so the Fiellu waterfall can be seen only from it, and dogs must be on a lead at all times. The photo shows the northern end, where the trail ends in stairs and a steep descent to Kenesjärvi.

River Teno (Deatnu): The Teno, Deatnu in Northern Sámi and Tana in Norwegian, is the border river between Finland and Norway. Road 970 follows it for 143 km from Karigasniemi through Utsjoki village to Nuorgam. The Teno is one of the best-known salmon rivers in Europe, and the local Sámi have fished it for generations. In recent years salmon fishing has been tightly restricted: for the current rules and permits, ask at the Kylätalo Giisá village hall in Utsjoki village. You can explore the valley by bike, on a SUP board, by canoe or in a traditional Teno river boat. The photo shows the Teno from road 970 between Nuorgam and Utsjoki.

Sámi Bridge (Sámi šaldi): The 300 m bridge over the Teno has linked Utsjoki village with Norway since 1993. Main road 4 from Helsinki ends here, and the border between Finland and Norway runs across the middle of the bridge. On the Norwegian side the clocks are one hour behind Finland.

Utsjoki church huts: By Utsjoki Church, about 6 km from the village, stand 14 restored church huts, some of them from the 1700s. Sámi families owned them and stayed in them during the major church festivals. The Finnish government protected the huts in 1995 as examples of Sámi residential and building traditions, and since 2004 they have belonged to the Utsjoki Church Cabin Association. You can visit all year, and in summer also with a guide. Park only in the marked areas, stay on the paths and do not photograph anyone without permission.

Kevo Strict Nature Reserve: Finland’s largest strict nature reserve was founded in 1956 and covers about 712 km². At its heart is a canyon valley more than 40 km long and in places almost 80 m deep, with the Kevojoki river at the bottom. In a strict nature reserve you may move only along the marked trails. The Kenesjärvi car park at the northern end of the Kevo trail is 25 km from Utsjoki village. For a day trip, Metsähallitus suggests the Sulaoja nature trail by the Karigasniemi road instead.

Välimaa Sámi farm: A River Sámi homestead founded in 1858 by the Teno in Nuorgam, 25 km from Utsjoki village. The Warsi family lived on the farm until the 1970s. In 1981 the Finnish Heritage Agency bought it so that it would be preserved as a site presenting River Sámi culture, and Metsähallitus now manages it. The timber and turf buildings are locked, but you are free to walk around the site, most easily when there is no snow. A lay-by about 300 m from the farm is kept clear in winter too. The farm is a protected ancient monument, so campfires and camping are not allowed.

Northernmost point of Finland and the EU: In Nuorgam, right on the Norwegian border, a memorial stone marks the northernmost point of Finland and the EU. It stands close to the Pulmanki border crossing on road 970, 47 km from Utsjoki village. You can drive right up to it, the site is step-free, and you can visit it all year round.

Restaurant Aurora Holidays: Aurora Holidays' restaurant in Vetsikko on the Teno road. Group and private events, catering and baking to order. Check current opening hours on their website.

Annukan Grilli: Village grill kiosk for burgers and quick bites.

Ravintola Deatnu (Lomakylä Valle): Lomakylä Valle: lunch, à la carte and a bookable Teno riverside sauna.

Kauppakeskus Nuorgam (ravintola): Restaurant in Nuorgam shopping centre; daily lunch, summer terrace.

Nuorgamin Lomakeskus: Riverside holiday village cafe-restaurant near Finland's northernmost point.

Kylätalo Giisa: Village hall cafe with homemade pastries and Sami crafts.

Pub Rastigaisa: Village pub and pizzeria in the centre of Utsjoki.

Ravintola Guossi (Hotelli Guossi): Hotel restaurant in Karigasniemi serving Lappish dishes, grilled food and pizzas, local reindeer and a weekday lunch; café and pub on site.

Tenon Tunturituvat: Summer café in a Teno river cottage village with coffee, fresh home bakes and local crafts as souvenirs.