Pyhä, Finland: Pyhä Ski Resort and Isokuru Gorge

Pyhä today: weather now, Isokuru and the summer trails of Pyhä-Luosto National Park, the ski resort, where to eat today and aurora chance.

Karhunjuomalampi trail: A 9.1 km loop from the Naava visitor centre car park through Isokuru, the deepest gorge in Finland, and up to Uhriharju ridge. It is moderately demanding and takes 3⁠–⁠4 hours. The first stretch, as far as the Isokuru rest stop, also suits small children. Two long, steep flights of stairs make the rest harder: about 200 steps down into the gorge and 475 steps up to Uhriharju. At the bottom of the gorge there is a boardwalk of about 1.3 km, and the trail passes Pyhänkasteenlampi, a pond that is a sacred place of the Sámi. Stay on the marked trail: the pond and the waterfall are inside a restricted zone, and you may not go down to them. You may not swim in Karhunjuomalampi either. The trail is for summer and autumn only: in winter there is a risk of avalanches in Isokuru.

Trail to Noitatunturi fell: A 12.5 km trail from the Naava visitor centre to Noitatunturi, at 540 m above sea level the highest point in the Pyhä-Luosto area. Noitatunturi is said to be an old sacred site, a seita, of the Forest Sámi, and it was once called Seitatunturi. The trail is demanding: there are big climbs, boulder fields and tree roots, so wear boots that support your ankles. Along the way you pass the Kuorinkikuru gorge, the Annikinlampi pond and the Oravalampi lean-to shelter. Part of the trail is a loop, best walked clockwise, and the whole walk takes 4⁠–⁠6 hours. The trail is not maintained in winter and there is a risk of avalanches, so walk it only when there is no snow.

Isokuru gorge and Pyhä-Luosto National Park: Isokuru, about 220 m deep, is the deepest gorge in Finland and the best-known sight in Pyhä-Luosto National Park. At the bottom of the gorge lies Pyhänkasteenlampi, a clear pond 12 m deep, and the Pyhänkasteenputous waterfall drops into it from a height of 17 m. The names tell of two faiths meeting: according to tradition, in the summer of 1648 the priest Esaias Fellman baptised the Forest Sámi at their old place of worship, a seita. The name of Uhriharju ridge comes from the ancient sacrificial practices of the Forest Sámi, and the ridge is a protected ancient monument. The area is a restricted zone: stay on the marked trail and the boardwalks, and do not swim in the pond or go to the waterfall. In winter Isokuru is avalanche terrain, so visit it only when there is no snow. The national park was formed in 2005 by enlarging Pyhätunturi National Park, founded in 1938, and it covers 144 km². Its emblem is the Siberian jay; do not feed the birds.

Pyhä-Luosto Visitor Centre Naava: The Pyhä-Luosto Visitor Centre Naava is at Luontotie 1, and the Karhunjuomalampi and Noitatunturi trails start from its car park. Its nature exhibition is accessible to wheelchair users and suits all ages, and it also tells of the old sacred places of the Forest Sámi. Entry is free, and dogs must wait outside. There is a shop and Café Loimu, and hunting and fishing permits are sold here. Opening hours change through the year, so before you go, check them on luontoon.fi, the website of Metsähallitus, the Finnish forest agency.

Pyhä ski resort: The Pyhä ski resort is at Kultakeronkatu 21 in Pyhätunturi village. The vertical drop is 280 m and the longest slope is 2 km. There are 9 lifts, 3 of them chairlifts, as well as 2 snow parks, 2 skinning routes and 4 lit slopes. Pyhä was chosen as Finland’s ski resort of the year in 2017. For the 2026⁠–⁠2027 season the resort aims to open in late November; check the dates on its own site before you go.

Pelkosenniemi church village: Pyhä belongs to the municipality of Pelkosenniemi, and the church village is about 30 km away by road, half an hour’s drive. It lies where three rivers meet: the Kemijoki, the Kitinen and the Luiro. Pelkosenniemi has the smallest population of any municipality in Lapland. Its wooden long church, designed by the architect Yrjö Sadeniemi, was completed in 1929 and survived the Lapland War; the altarpiece was painted by Aale Hakava in 1954. The church is open during services and at other times by arrangement. Kilpiaapa, behind the village school, is the tenth largest aapa bog in Finland and a Natura 2000 site.

Suvanto village: Suvanto, on the Kitinen river about 11 km northwest of the Pelkosenniemi church village, is the only village in Lapland built in the traditional Peräpohjola style that was spared by the wars. It has more than a hundred log buildings from before the wars, some of them from as early as the 1600s, and it is a nationally significant built cultural environment. In 1987 it was chosen as the most beautiful village in Lapland. The Suvanto ferry, from 1960, is now a museum.

Kairala village: In Kairala village, by Highway 5 north of Pelkosenniemi, old log buildings in the Peräpohjola style escaped burning in the Lapland War. Cafe Vuopio is in a main farmhouse completed in 1814, and the village also has the Ollila granary, about 300 years old. Kairala, too, is a nationally significant built cultural environment.

Restaurant Huttuhippu: Family-slope ski restaurant by day, a la carte evenings.

Restaurant Hoori: Charcoal-grill steakhouse at the foot of Polar slopes.

Restaurant Popolo: Wood-fired Italian pizzas and pasta at Hotel Kultakero.

Restaurant Tsokka: Summit restaurant with northern flavours and legendary waffles.

Bistro Kurula's: Modern European cooking with fell and lake views.

Pyhän Camp Kitchen & Bar: Restaurant by Hotel Pyhätunturi, local and global flavours.

SportBar Pyhä: Shopping-centre pub with karaoke, billiards and darts.

Hanki Baari Pyhä: Relaxed bar at the foot of the north slopes, with simple food and drinks.

Kotaravintola Suonmukka: Campfire kota by Soutajanlampi lake with reindeer soup, reindeer burgers and campfire coffee; reached on skis, on foot or by snowmobile.

Kairosmaja Café: Café at a fell centre with breakfast, soup lunch and a souvenir shop, and a buffet-dinner restaurant in season.

Pyhä Dreams Wine Bar: Relaxed wine bar in a cabin on top of Pyhätunturi fell: a glass of wine after skiing, plus wine tastings.

Bistro Vanha Pappila: Bistro and cafe in the old rectory behind the church.